Every week, or every other week, or once a month (don’t know if there is a schedule) 50-70 of Engo Sengiu's men get their pangas and hoes and spend half a day tidying up a section of the nfareji.The nfareji is the traditional irrigation system, which is a network of trenches varying from 50cm to two metres wide into which the water from Mt Meru flows (via Arusha town before reaching us). To irrigate your farm you dig a connecting trench from the main line into your own network of trenches in your farm. I’m guessing there must be some etiquette surrounding its use because it would be too easy for someone upstream to hog all the water. The nfareji is also used as a rubbish bin (rubbish floats away - out of sight out of mind) and a toilet. Many of the illnesses around are a result of people drinking or being exposed to the typhoid and cholera laced nfareji water. The town water, which is on for about 30 minutes each morning is also pretty dodgy, and it is often too expensive for people to boil their water. This is particularly a problem now that coal burning for cooking has just been outlawed. The old Masai women who carry bags of coal on their donkeys to sell, have had their coal confiscated by the government. And no policies for alternative fuel sources appear to exist.
So, one recent Saturday morning, Corky and myself headed off to the meeting point for this round of nfareji work. We’d been warned that this week was going to be ‘nfareji kubwa’ (big nfareji). So, armed with a panga I found myself in the front group preparing to launch myself, boots and all, into the swiftly flowing water. For the following 3 hours, I and 30 other men waded upstream hacking the grass, plants and branches away from the sides of the nfareji. The murky grey-brown water littered with rubbish and excrement would splash up into my eyes, mouth and gradually increasing number of cuts in my arms and legs. Mightn’t sound like much fun and it no doubt put my vaccinations to the test, but the scenery we passed on our (roughly 2km) wade up the nfareji was like something out of an Indiana Jones or Tarzan movie. Dense banana trees (and a thousand other types of plant) overhanging the nfareji, the steep slopes of the hill we traversed overlooking the shambas (farms) in our village and surrounding areas. When we reached our end point we stood in a line in the water and gathered the rocks off the bottom and piled them on the edges (we only did this for about 10 minutes before everyone got bored). We then strolled back down to the village and sat under a large shady Acacia for the nfareji meeting. The meeting discusses who didn't show up and what to do with the fine (for not showing up) money - they decided to build 4 mini-weirs around the area to better manage the water flows.
We are probably one of the first mzungu to ever have helped work on the nfareji and the appreciation it earns us goes towards the security of our accommodation. The more people we can have on 'our side' then it is less likely that any organised raid of our house and land will happen. Which would be a good score for anyone successful in doing so given the number of laptops in this house and wealth that surrounds a group of wazungu.
